The Epiphyllum cactus are jewels and the proud owners of some of the largest, most unbelievable flowers in the whole plant world.
The porcelain-petaled, saucer-size pond lily suffers by comparison.
Many people pass up anything listed in the cactus group. They immediately think of stickers and thorns. However, the decorative, free-flowering epiphyllum has no thorns. It is easier to cultivate in the average home than the orchid.
Cultivation notes
Epiphyllum cacti are mostly epiphytic (they grow on other plants, but only use them as a support). They are often grown in hanging baskets to accommodate their long, pendent, leaf-like stems, but can be grown in containers.
They are hardy to about 10°C (50°F), but require at least 15°C (60°F) during the growing season, so are best grown in a heated greenhouse, conservatory or indoors.
Place the pots in bright, filtered light, with moderate to high humidity. To increase the humidity, position the pot on a tray filled with gravel and keep this topped up with water, but not enough so that the water reaches the surface.
Orchid cacti require sharply-drained growing media. Grow them in a standard cactus compost with added grit or perlite. Alternatively, mix three parts loam-based compost, such as John Innes No.2, with two parts grit or perlite and one part peat-free multipurpose compost.
Aftercare
- From mid-spring until late summer, water the plants when the compost begins to dry out, but do not let the plants stand in water
- Apply cactus fertiliser fortnightly
- To encourage blooming, move the plants in winter into a cooler place, about 11-14°C, (52-57°F) and keep the compost just moist until the flower buds form
- Once this has happened, increase the temperature and resume the normal watering regime
Pruning and training
Overlong stems can be cut off or shortened. New shoots will usually develop just behind the cut. However, be careful not to overwater after pruning as the plant’s water requirements will be reduced.
Large Epiphyllum can become unstable in their pots. Either repot in to a heavier pot, such as terracotta, or a wider container, such as a pan. Alternatively, try using canes and tying the stems up, but this can look unsightly.
Sowing seed
- Sow seed in spring or summer
- Fill a container with cactus compost and scatter the seed evenly on the surface
- Moisten the compost lightly with a fine mist sprayer
- Top-dress with a thin layer of fine grit
- Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or place into a propagator and keep at 21°C (70°F)
- Remove the covering once the seeds have germinated
- Keep the compost moist, but not wet
- Prick out when the seedlings become crowded and large enough to handle comfortably
- They will take four to seven years to flower
Cuttings
Take stem cuttings in spring to late summer.
- Cut the leaf-like stem into 15-22.5cm (6-9in) sections and let it callus (dry) for several days in a warm place
- Fill a pot one third full with cactus compost and cover with a layer of grit. Insert the cuttings 2.5-5cm (1-2in) deep
- Keep the compost just moist and maintain temperature of 18-24°C (65-75°F)
- They should root in three to six weeks and flower the following year, if taken early in the season
Orchid Cactus Care:
Like the summer-flowering tuberous begonia, these are “shade plants” only in hot climates – where they can spend the summer near a protective north wall or in the dappled shade from a tree.
Otherwise, they need sunlight in fall, winter, and spring, and shade only when summer sun becomes searing hot. The Epiphyllum flower best when temperatures stay near 65 degrees, and when the air is humid.
Misting or spraying the stems, except when the plants are in bud or flower, both humidifies and cleans the leaves of clogging dust.
Cultivar Selection
Epiphyllum cultivars are often sold as unrooted cuttings by mail order suppliers.
Try cultivars such as ‘Calypso’, ‘Buttercup’, ‘Dante’, ‘Flamingo’, ‘Firewell’, ‘Appeal’ and ‘Bliss’.
Some species such as E. oxypetalum are nocturnal – with their flowers opening during the night.
Epiphyllum Pests
Scale, mealy bugs and aphids are the most common pests we have found. All three can be controlled with any of the commercial insecticidal soaps available, some growers prefer systemic insecticides. (When using any type of poison always follow manufacturers’ instructions) Remember to water plants before treating with insecticides, as they should not be dry prior to application.
Small infestations may also be removed with a solution of 50% isopropyl alcohol and 50% water. This can be swabbed or sprayed on the infected area, (Including blooms).
Snails and slugs also love Epiphyllum, so bait regularly as they can cause considerable damage in a very short period of time.
Ants do not attack Epi plants directly; they feed on the secretions of the other insects. Keeping ant populations down will aid in ridding your plants of mealy bugs and aphids.
Problems
Epiphyllum cacti are prone to several common houseplant and greenhouse problems: mealybugs, aphids and glasshouse red spider mite.
